Mile 478 to 486

PCT in a tree covered canyon in the Angeles Ntl Forest.

Section E
Sanfrancisquito Canyon Rd to Hughes Lk Rd.–Nobo
Miles: 8
Hiking with: Rob



Lodging: Best Western John Jay Inn, Palmdale, CA – There are a lot of hotels in Palmdale along Hwy 14.  It was appropriate we stay in the John Jay Best Western on Martin Luther King Day Weekend.  John Jay was the first Supreme Court Justice and 3 time Governor of New York.  On his third try as Governor he emancipated the slaves in New York State.  Why there is a hotel in the small remote desert city of Palmdale, CA named after him I have no idea.  The décor was sort of colonial.  I got my Best Western discount and so got a real deal.  Regardless of what I paid I feel Best Western is always a great deal.  They’re always cheaper than the Marriotts, Hiltons, and Holiday Inn Expresses and usually get comparable rooms.  However, this hotel only had hard wired Internet in the rooms.  The only wireless available was in the lobby.



Car Rental: We rented from Avis in Hesperia the previous day. It was about 10 minutes away from the Hotel. I was able to return the car in Palmdale just 2 exits north of the hotel.



Dining: After hiking we returned the rental car and asked the attendant if she knew of any good restaurants – she pointed to the Bayou Bar B Que across the parking lot and said “I’ve never eaten there but everyone say it’s great”.  That’s was good enough for us so we tried it.  Wow—this was as Cajun as this boy born in Michigan and lived in Arizona for the past 25 years has ever had.  I’ve read some of the on-line reviews and they are like:  “Best Cajun food west of Texas”.  Definitely worth the try.  I had the Bayou Classic which is Bar B Que chicken, smoked brisket, spicy pulled pork, bacon, and cole slaw on a hamburger bun – FANTASTIC!!!  I also had some other southern food such as Greens (boiled large leaf of some sort) and Lousiana Boudin (Pork and spices injected into a natural casing)….It was OK but next time I’m getting cole slaw.



Start: We dropped a car off along the roadside where the PCT crosses Hughes Lake Road and then drove to San Francisquito Canyon Rd and parked along the roadside where the PCT crosses.  There were another 6 cars here – my guess they were from locals out doing a quick hike (they were all gone when we returned to pick up the car after the hike).  Just down the road is a forest service station with a parking lot and picnic tables.  I’m surprised they PCT wasn’t routed through this spot just 100 yards down the road. 



End: We arrived at our car on Hughes Lake Rd.



People along the trail: We saw a local hiking with his dog and a trail runner.



Description: Having spent a summer in Palmdale 30 years ago I thought this area would be ugly low desert scrub and very exposed.  To my surprise there was a lot of tree cover and it was extremely green (although this is January not Spring/Summer and we had cloud cover).  The canyons had large trees which added variety to the PCT.  The trail would wind into a canyon with tree cover with a forest feel and then wind out to a ridge line with spectacular vistas. 

After the hike we drove back to get the other car at San Francisquito Canyon Rd, drove back to the hotel and showered (they were very nice and gave us a late checkout), dropped off the rental car, ate at Bayou Bar B Que (see comments above), and started our cruise back to Phoenix in the Mini Cooper.  The term “Mini” is very descriptive not only in the size of the car but also of the gas tank.  About 30 miles outside of Blythe we noticed the display said we had 37 miles of gas left.  We finally pulled into the first gas station in Blythe with “1 mile” of gas left.  Hmmm….we almost had an unplanned hike.

Me at the San Francisquito Canyon Rd Trail head. 
Here the signs are made of 1" thick steel. 
Unlike PCT Signs in Deep Creek the bullet holes didn't go through the sign.

A view from the PCT looking North into the Mohave Desert.

Wow -- what are these Californians shooting with.
Some of these bullet holes go right through this 1" steel sign.

Fallen tree in a canyon.

Water Cache just west of Hughes Lake Road. 

PCT crossing Hughes Lake Road.

Red Ford Focus rental car & Rob -- this little car can handle corners well.

Greens & the Bayou Classic from Bayou Bar B Que.

Pork Boudin sausage -- I can now say I tried it....once.

Mini Cooper's display showing 2 mls of gas left
and 3 miles from the next gas station!!!!

Mile 298 to 314

Bridge at mile 310.  From this point N. the PCT is
on top of the Hesperia Aqueduct.

Section C
Deep Creek Baldwin Lake to Little Bear Springs – Nobo
Miles: 16
Hiking with: Rob

Lodging:  Holiday Inn Express, Hesperia, CA  - There are a lot of hotels in Hesperia.  I would have preferred to stay in the Best Western at El Cajon pass but that is closer to the ski resort in the San Bernardino Mtns and consequently had higher rates.  There are a lot of hotels in the area and at the next intersection to the north.  I booked through www.hotwire.com and paid about $80.

Car Rental:  We rented from Avis in Hesperia.  It was about 10 minutes away from the Hotel.  I was able to return the car in Palmdale the next day which was closer to my planned hike for day 2.

Dining:  At the next exit to the north we ate at Baja Fresh.  A good safe bet.  There are a lot of places --- no lack of choice.  I wanted to eat at Emma Jeans Holland Burger which is a Diners, Drive-ins & Dives but it was closed for dinner -- next hike.

Start:  We dropped off a car at mile 314 where the trail crosses Hwy 173, a 30 minute drive from the hotel.  There is a parking area at the crossing.  There were about 8 cars when we returned -- I assume all hiking up to Deep Creek Hot Springs (6 miles one way).  Hwy 173 is closed just past the PCT crossing.  To save money the State gave the road to San Bernardino County who closed it so they didn't have to maintain the road but they reserved it as an emergency route out of Lake Arrowhead.  The maps can be a little confusing in this area as they show the road going right through a lake -- no worries -- this is another Southern California dry lake.

End:   We then drove on Hwy 173 to Hwy 138, through the mountain village of Crestline to the "Rim of the World Hwy", to Lake Arrowhead, to Hook Rd, and onto Splinter's Cabin trail head.  From Hwy 173 which loops around the east side of Lake Arrowhead take Hook Creek Rd – which is a major intersection for this area (no stop light). Stay on Hook Creek Rd. which winds up and down and around for a while. You’ll finally see some signs that say “Splinters Cabin” – follow the sign.  After you cross a small creek  a locked gate will be on your right with some parking to the side. Follow the dirt/paved road behind the gate for about ½ mile past the washed out road, past Splinter’s Cabin to the Deep Creek Bridge and the PCT.

People along the trail:  The Hot Springs (mile 307) were a happening place.  There were about 30 college kids in several groups (in swimming suits) -- I was rather glad I didn't see any naked old men like most hikers report.  Everyone was pleasant.


Description:  The day was pretty short with the sun rising about 7ish and going down about 5:30.  We left the hotel about 7:30 but didn't get the the beginning of Deep Creek until 8:45.  The road from Hesperia to Lake Arrowhead are very curvy -- not worries as we were driving Rob's wife's Mini Cooper and the rental was a loaded Ford Focus which handled very nicely.  Shuttling cars we drove this road 3 time during this day and it was a lot more fun to cruise around those corners in small sporty cars rather than my Excursion. 
We were the only car at the Splinter's Cabin / Deep Creek Trail head.  It was a little cool in the morning with ice covering the parts of the slower moving creek.  The trail is carved into the wall of Deep Creek the whole way which makes this a very spectacular hike.  This section of the PCT is also used by a lot of locals as evidence by the bullet holes in the PCT signs and from the Hot Springs north there is a lot of Graffiti. 
At about mile 309.5 on the opposite side of the canyon you can see a water gate and the beginning of the Hesperia Aqueduct.  I don't know how old the aqueduct is but it's got to be 1800s?  A 1/2 mile further down the trail is an arched bridge where the PCT crosses the canyon.  From this point on the trail is on top of the Hesperia Aqueduct until you reach the Dam at mile 312.5. 
I've read where others thought this was the most spectacular part of the PCT from the Mexican Border -- It was impressive but I'd say top 5.  It is unique so far as it is truly a canyon hike rather than a mountain ridge/side hike.
The PCT was closed in this section due to a land slide.  I had heard from other PCTers that it was passable for hikers -- after looking at the alternate route which was basically a dirt road I decided to cheat and stay on the PCT -- I'm glad I did.
I read another hiker's description of this trail which said the best time to hike this section was in May when the wild flowers are in bloom and the Creek is running strong -- I believe him although the creek was flowing well in Jan and when I saw it in October.

Rob & the ever so nimble Mini Cooper (I wish it had a larger gas tank).

The bridge at the beginning of Deep Creek.  Note the ice on the creek.

Land slide that causes the Forest Service to close this section of the PCT.
I crossed it easily without fear of life.

Deep Creek.

We smelled a skunk along the trail and soon came upon the source.
There was a fight between two animals and the skunk lost -- big time.
All that was left of the skunk as one paw (in the above pic)
and some tufts of black & white fur.

Deep Creek.

PCT sign with Bullet holes (1/4" steel plate).

Bridge 2 of 3 on this section.

Hmmm....a melted sign from a forest fire I presume.

Deep Creek Hot Springs.

The arched bridge where the trail meets the Hesperia Aqueduct
which looks like a trail coming from the right edge of the picture.

Graffiti sample.

Colorful Graffiti on a PCT sign.

The gate was open to the dam and 4 wheelers were driving through the dam.

Mile 268 to 285

Big Bear Lake from mile 277ish.

Section C
Baldwin Lake to Little Bear Springs – Nobo
Miles: 17
Hiking with: Gary B & Rob

Lodging:  Inn at Fawnskin Cabins  - There are a lot of cabins and motels in Big Bear on the south side of the lake.  I chose the little community of Fawnskin to stay in because it is on the northwest side of the lake closer to Lake Arrowhead Splinter’s Cabin and to Little Bear Springs.  Oktoberfest goes for at least a month on Big Bear with the slogan is “Party like a Local!!!”.  Evidently with marketing strategy works pretty well as the town seamed pretty full and consequently the hotel/cabin rates seemed pretty high.  We ended up paying $250/night for a 2 bed 1 bath cabin with a futon – at least it had direct TV but no Internet.  The Big Bear Best Western was $160/night and we would have needed 2 rooms so the cabin sounded pretty good.

Car Rental:  Enterprise 229 South Street, San Bernardino, CA 92401 Tel.: (909) 888-3241.  A lot of the enterprise locations is they are independently owned so you can rent a car in one location and drop it off at another without a fee.  This Enterprise rental location in San Bernardino is owned by the same guy who owns the Big Bear location so we were able to rent here and return the car in Big Bear!!!  Yahoo – that saved us about an hour on our last day!!!

Dining:  Big Bear -- Maggio’s Pizza Big Bear, CA – My theory is forget the fancy restaurants go where the locals go.  At the hotel the exec told me to go to the Peppermill which is the nicest place in town.  When I asked the front desk clerk who looked like a college student where he goes to eat he said Maggio’s – Bingo!!!  This is great Italian food at a great price.  I’ve eaten here 4 times and never been disappointed.  I had spaghetti, Calzone, Pizza, salad – it’s all great.  It’s always been full but we’ve never waited more than 10 minutes.

I’ve also eaten at “Get the Burger” in Big Bear which is a popular local Burger Joint, better than fast food, but pricey for a Burger – I’d go there again.



Start:  From Hwy 18 on the north side of Lake Baldwin (frequently a dry lake) we turned north towards the city dump on Holcomb Valley Road, a well groomed dirt road toward the City dump.  About ½ mile up you’ll see a small sign for the PCT and the trail on both sides of the road.  We parked on the side of the road. 



End:  From Fawnskin we took Rim of the World Dr north which “T”s off of the main road next to the Fawnskin Fire Station.  It is a well groomed dirt road that any vehicle could go on.  Eventually the road turns into Coxey Truck Trail.  Although maps show other roads merging and intersections we were on the only main road there was.  The road gently climbs up the mountain and then drops into the Holcomb Creek drainage.  The PCT runs next to Holcomb Creek at this point. 

People along the trail:  About mile 278 we came across 2 older couples who had enjoyed Oktoberfest the night before in Big Bear and were out for a short hike.  They were excited to get back to Oktoberfest for lunch as they have free coleslaw there – go figure. 

We also came across 20 people working on the PCT with the Big Bear Valley Trails Foundation.  My hat is off to this group making a difference on the PCT.



Description:  We got up early and drove over to the trail head.  The sun had just come up and it was a little chilly but we knew it would warm up soon.  The trail quickly ascended the mountain range north of Big Bear Lake and then hugged the back side for the first half.  There were great views to the north into the Mohave Desert.  Soon the trail crossed over to the south side of the ridge with gorgeous views of Big Bear Lake.  Then the trail slowly descended back to Holcomb Creek where we had left our car we started the previous day’s hike.  We jumped into the car, drove back to our cabin where we had arranged for a late checkout, showered (convenient before a long car ride with others), picked up the rental car, dropped off the rental car in Big Bear, ate at “Get the Burger”, and drove home to Phoenix.

Starting the hike.  We parked along side the road where the
PCT crossed.

The first ascent to the ridge line.

A view to the north into the Mohave Desert.

PCT Sign.  This is typical of the tree cover and vegetation we had all day.

A rather unusual sign placement -- in the trail.

A view NW.  The white isn't snow, I suspect it is a
surface mining operation.

A view down at Big Bear Lake and Big Bear City on the far side.

The last 2 miles of this hike was through an old burnt section of forest.
This fire burnt all the way to Deep Creek. 

Little Bear Spring Trail Camp complete with horse corral and
picnic table. 

Gary B in front of the cabin/house we stayed in.

Mile 285 to 298

Sorry this is not along the PCT.  Rather a view of Big Bear
Lake at Sunset from the north shore driving into town to
eat at Maggio's Pizza.

Section C
Little Bear Springs to Splinters Cabin – Nobo
Fawnskin to Lake Arrowhead
Miles: 13.5
Hiking with: Gary B & Rob

Lodging:  Inn at Fawnskin Cabins  - There are a lot of cabins and motels in Big Bear on the south side of the lake.  I chose the little community of Fawnskin to stay in because it is on the northwest side of the lake closer to Lake Arrowhead Splinter’s Cabin and to Little Bear Springs.  Oktoberfest goes for at least a month on Big Bear with the slogan is “Party like a Local!!!”.  Evidently with marketing strategy works pretty well as the town seamed pretty full and consequently the hotel/cabin rates seemed pretty high.  We ended up paying $250/night for a 2 bed 1 bath cabin with a futon – at least it had direct TV but no internet.  The Big Bear Best Western was $160/night and we would have needed 2 rooms so the cabin sounded pretty good.

Car Rental:  Enterprise 229 South Street, San Bernardino, CA 92401 Tel.: (909) 888-3241.  A lot of the enterprise locations is they are independently owned so you can rent a car in one location and drop it off at another without a fee.  This Enterprise rental location in San Bernardino is owned by the same guy who owns the Big Bear location so we were able to rent here and return the car in Big Bear!!!  Yahoo – that saved us about an hour on our last day!!!

Dining:  Lake Arrowhead – After we were done with this hike we were driving out on Hook Creek Road.  We passed a commercial area & I was looking for someplace to grab a bite.  I saw a small sign on the side of a wood planked 1 story building that said “Malt Shop”.  We turned around and went back – WOW!!!  There is a small sign on the front that said “CedarGlen Malt Shop.” This was the best place I’ve eaten at so far on the PCT!!!  This is a must stop – I had their “lowrider” burger.  Everyone agreed this place was fantastic.

Big Bear -- Maggio’s Pizza Big Bear, CA – My theory is forget the fancy restaurants go where the locals go.  At the hotel the exec told me to go to the Peppermill which is the nicest place in town.  When I asked the front desk clerk who looked like a college student where he goes to eat he said Maggio’s – Bingo!!!  This is great Italian food at a great price.  I’ve eaten here 4 times and never been disappointed.  I had spaghetti, Calzone, Pizza, salad – it’s all great.  It’s always been full but we’ve never waited more than 10 minutes.

I’ve also eaten at “Get the Burger” in Big Bear which is a popular local Burger Joint, better than fast food, but pricey for a Burger – I’d go there again.



Start:  From Fawnskin we took Rim of the World Dr north which “T”s off of the main road next to the Fawnskin Fire Station.  It is a well groomed dirt road that any vehicle could go on.  Eventually the road turns into Coxey Truck Trail.  Although maps show other roads merging and intersections we were on the only main road there was.  The road gently climbs up the mountain and then drops into the Holcomb Creek drainage.  The PCT runs next to Holcomb Creek at this point. 

End:  From Hwy 173 which loops around the east side of Lake Arrowhead take Hook Creek Rd – which is a major intersection for this area (no stop light).  Stay on Hook Creek Rd. which winds up and down and around for a while.  You’ll finally see some signs that say “Splinters Cabin” – follow the signs until you come to a locked gate with some parking to the side.  There was a storm that washed out a creek crossing so they gated the road.  From here you hike about ½ mile down the washed out road past Splinter’s Cabin to the Deep Creek Bridge and the PCT.


People along the trail:  We met 3 groups of people who were spending the weekend at Lake Arrowhead and were just out hiking.  They were all on the West end of the trail.



Description:  We had a hard time finding the trail where we parked.  The Holcomb Creek which the PCT follows ran perpendicular to the road.  It was obvious where it came in from the east but we were going to the west and didn’t see any PCT signs or trail so we hiked next to the creek assuming we’d find the trail quickly.  After about 50 yards I started looking more fervently for the trail…it was further up the northern bank of the river.  The trail must have gone north up the Coxey Truck Trail a little and then headed west.  Anyway we got on the trail and continued on.  The trail followed Holcomb Creek winding in and out of side canyons in true PCT fashion and then climbed out and over some high country before dropping down into Deep Creek Canyon where the was a very impressive hiking bridge that crossed the Canyon.  From here we exited out to Splinter’s Cabin to our car, drove back to Lake Arrowhead and ate at the Glen Cove Malt Shop (don’t miss it – see my comments under Dining), drove back to the cabin at Fawnskin, relaxed and watched a couple of Adam Sandler movies, ate dinner at Maggio’s in Big Bear, and then went to bed.

Parking area along Coxey Truck Trail and Holcomb Creek.
Gary B (red) & Rob (black).

Along Holcomb Creek. Gary B & Rob.

Taken from Deep Creek Bridge looking down Deep Creek.

Deep Creek Bridge.

Splinters Cabin.  Only the foundation remains.  Built in 1920ish.
The Cabana was built to protect the the stone walls that remain.

Rob, Me & the Rental Car at the parking area for Splinters Cabin.

Rob & Ricky Williams (poster on the wall) at the Glen Cove Malt Shop.
Good food, technology, and the PCT -- they make a great combo!!!

Mile 210 to 240.5

Mission Creek looking upstream on day 1.  The dried Yucca
Blossoms were very unique.

Section C
Heart Bar Ranch to I-10 - Sobo
Miles: 30.5 miles (2 days)
Hiking with:  Solo

Lodging:  None
Car Rental:  None
Dining:  None

Start:  We took Hwy 38 north from Redlands to Heart Bar State Park.  We turned south off the road and at the “Y” we took a right and drove for about 30 minutes.  There was a PCT sign and a wide bend where the PCT crossed the road. 

End:  I-10.  Off of I-10 take the Haugen-Lehman Way exit 110 which is right before the Hwy 111 exit to Palm Spring if you’re coming from LA.  Go to the north side of I-10 and turn left on Tamarack Road.  About 100 yards past the last house on your left you’ll be able to see where the dry river bed goes under I-10 (this is a big overpass – you can’t miss it).  This is where the PCT goes under I-10 and you should be able to see the trail on both sides of the road.  I understand that cars left unattended here will get towed!!!  If you have to park go further north at mile 111.5 where the PCT crosses Desert View Rd where there is a parking lot. 

People along the trail:  None.  However they were other car campers at the Whitewater WildernessPreserve.  A couple of old ladies came over to my tent as told me they were Christians – I told them I was hiking all day.  I was as interested in their religion as they were about my hiking.  Boring.

Description:  My two boys (23 & 15) decided they wanted to do Disneyland and so I had them shuttle me.  They dropped me off about 10 pm in complete darkness.  They looked a little concerned as their dad hiked off into the darkness by himself – that probably lasted about 30 seconds and then they were worried about finding their way back to civilization on this dirt road.  I hiked about ½ mile until I got to Mission Springs Camp at mile 239.  About 200 yards away were two springs so I thought I would hear animals all night – not a one.  I was up before sunrise, packed up camp, ate breakfast and was on the trail before the sun came up although the sky was blue – perfect.  The trail rapidly descended from the alpine forest down mission creek down to a large wash.  The trail follows a spectacular desert stream for a long ways.  About 1:30 pm at mile 226 it was getting pretty hot so drenched myself with water and napped under a tree for about an hour.  It was the ideal spot as shortly after the trail steeply climbed up a ridge and then descended into the Whitewater River drainage.  At about 4 pm and mile 220 I stopped in the shade next to the river and drenched myself again and cooled off another 15 minutes before I completed the day’s journey to the Whitewater Wilderness Preserve.

The Whitewater Wilderness Preserve is pretty impressive.  They have tap water, nice bathrooms, picnic tables and grass to camp on.  There is signage from the PCT to the preserve ½ mile away.  I guess the old owners weren’t friendly to PCT hikers – these guys were great. 

I was up before the sun the next day, packed my tent, ate lunch, used the restrooms, and on the trail with my headlamp.  The sun was up within 10 minutes.  The trail was very different today as it climbed out of the desert wash and up through the neighboring mountains.  There were horse tracks on the trail and what I thought were mountain lion tracks (I’m sure it was just a big dog following the horse).  After a while I popped over a saddle and was hiking alongside a windmill farm – maybe this stops air pollution but they make up for it in noise pollution.  About 2.5 miles from I-10 the terrain opens up and you hike around the little community to get to I-10.  My boys were supposed to pick me up at 10 am but had slept in (who would have thought).  I camped out in the shade of the I-10 overpass for 30 minutes until they arrived.  We cruised back to Phoenix. 

This was my first PCT solo hike.  I’ve solo hiked once before and find it very peaceful.  It is also very efficient as you can stop and start when you want and hike at your own pace.  My biggest worry is getting lost but with maps and my GPS I feel very confident. 

A red sky as the sun rises early in the morning near Mission Springs Camp.

My backpack at Mission Springs Camp.

Unusual dried Yucca blossoms along Mission Creek.

Mission Creek.

A look down at Mission Creek as the trail ascends over a ridge to Whitewater River.

The first view of Whitewater River.

A large heard of Mountain Goats just above Whitewater River.

Signs at the Whitewater Preserve and the PCT junction.

Whitewater Perserve's bridge & trail leading to their facility.

Whitewater Preserve camping area -- free for hikers!!!

A trout pond at Whitewater Preserve.

Sunrise on the mountains on day 2.

Windfarm along the PCT.

Trail sign at the beginning of Section "C".